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Bathroom Paint and Plaster Problems, Latex kitchen/bathroom paint

Question:

Is it possible that you have a leak behind the wall, perhaps from the pipes or the roof vent? John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a problem with paint, plaster and corner bead in a bathroom. It is located on a short wall next to the corner of a fiberglass shower and tub. Originally the space for the bathtub turned out to be shorter and narrower than the new tub required so a short wall was installed to make a space wider than the tub. The wall had a mildew problem and than plaster damage and rotten 2 x 4 wood. Last spring I replaced the water damaged drywall, the rotten wood with chemically treated lumber, used indoor/outdoor spackling and painted with what was supposed to be bathroom/kitchen rated paint. The paint was not supposed to need primer and was latex water based. I followed the instructions about time between additional paint coats. The old corner bead had some rust which I sanded off before painting and the section that was replaced with new galvanized corner bead probably lost its coating at the corner from sandpaper. Six months later the new plaster area and the old area that were painted do not have any problem with mildew (Paint was mildew resistant.) but I have paint cracking, rust causing the paint to flake off on the old corner bead and some of the spackling coming off after exposure to water. I would have assumed that four coats of water resistant paint designed for bathrooms/kitchens would protect the plaster underneath. I have some deformation of the plaster possibly caused by nails in the original dry 2 x4 moving up and cracks probably caused by the underlying drywall cracking. I have replaced the shower curtain and installed a plastic corner guard between the tub and the shower stall to help prevent water splashing on the short wall. Most of the problems were from the paint which was purchased at Miejer* and is apparently the brand "magical". The next thing I intend to do is sand all the cracked and loose paint off. Sand off any high points on the spackling and probably dig out the areas that my be nails coming up and fill. Sand out the rust on the old corner beads again. Patch the plaster with DAP CrackSHOT Spackling Paste Interior/Exterior which I have very good results with elsewhere. Paint with an oil based primer and coat with urethane (oil) based paint. How would you fix this problem permanently? Thanks everyone, Bond *Miejer is similar to K-Mart or WalMart in the midwest.

Response:

Hi, Used green drywall(water resistant one)? Have good ventilation in the bathroom? Definitely it is moisture problem. If you used ordinary drywall piece, that is no, no, in bathroom. How about using tiles on top of green dry wall meaning doing it over again. Good luck, Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a problem with paint, plaster and corner bead in a bathroom. It is located on a short wall next to the corner of a fiberglass shower and tub. Originally the space for the bathtub turned out to be shorter and narrower than the new tub required so a short wall was installed to make a space wider than the tub. The wall had a mildew problem and than plaster damage and rotten 2 x 4 wood. Last spring I replaced the water damaged drywall, the rotten wood with chemically treated lumber, used indoor/outdoor spackling and painted with what was supposed to be bathroom/kitchen rated paint. The paint was not supposed to need primer and was latex water based. I followed the instructions about time between additional paint coats. The old corner bead had some rust which I sanded off before painting and the section that was replaced with new galvanized corner bead probably lost its coating at the corner from sandpaper. Six months later the new plaster area and the old area that were painted do not have any problem with mildew (Paint was mildew resistant.) but I have paint cracking, rust causing the paint to flake off on the old corner bead and some of the spackling coming off after exposure to water. I would have assumed that four coats of water resistant paint designed for bathrooms/kitchens would protect the plaster underneath. I have some deformation of the plaster possibly caused by nails in the original dry 2 x4 moving up and cracks probably caused by the underlying drywall cracking. I have replaced the shower curtain and installed a plastic corner guard between the tub and the shower stall to help prevent water splashing on the short wall. Most of the problems were from the paint which was purchased at Miejer* and is apparently the brand "magical". The next thing I intend to do is sand all the cracked and loose paint off. Sand off any high points on the spackling and probably dig out the areas that my be nails coming up and fill. Sand out the rust on the old corner beads again. Patch the plaster with DAP CrackSHOT Spackling Paste Interior/Exterior which I have very good results with elsewhere. Paint with an oil based primer and coat with urethane (oil) based paint. How would you fix this problem permanently? Thanks everyone, Bond *Miejer is similar to K-Mart or WalMart in the midwest.

Response:

Poe, I wrote a long description because some things are difficult to explain without pictures. The problem area can be mostly be seen from behind the wall because the bedroom closet has an access panel to get to the tub plumbing. When I repaired the 2 x 4s with treated lumber I used three scraps from an old project that the longest was only 7 inches. New treated lumber is usually quite wet but these four year old pieces were bone dry. Indications when I did the repair and when I checked with a mirror and flashlight today are that the water mostly came from the floor of the bathroom. The drywall was wet from the outside and when it was repaired all the damp, damaged material was replaced. What didn’t come from the floor was splash and condensation on the wall. Not removing the damaged plaster and repairing it immediately after I noticed the mildew made the problem even worse. When I finished the repair I caulked the floor, the edge against the fiberglass tub and the edge against the wall paper. The old dry wall was definitely acting like a wick when water was spilled on the floor. I repaired and caulked the old vinyl floor but a future project will replace the vinyl and repair the rotten floor near the toilet. I will be putting on another layer of caulking when I redo this. I considered buying green board for this repair originally. What I will do is try to repair this one more time and if it doesn’t work later the entire stub wall and bead edges will be replaced with new material. According to the following site: http://benjaminmoore.com/h/hb3.html#pic6 I did not wait long enough for the spackling to dry before painting. According to the spackling instructions I did. I think the problem may have been mostly damp spackling and defective paint. If I am wrong I will probably do it your way. Thanks for your help. Bond – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The dry wall is wet, its that simple. What you’ve done is sealed the moisture in, rather than preventing moisture from getting in. What you’ll need to do (an I know you don’t want to hear this) is rebuild the wall.  Over time the caulking fails around the tub and the dry wall act like a wick, and soaks up the  moisture. Tear out the old wall I’m sure you will find that the bottom of the wall is wet and rotting. Rebuild the wall using regular 2×4’s (don’t use treated wood, the chemical in the wood will leech into the dry wall and create the problem your trying to avoid) Board it with Green Board, that’s that green dry wall stuff and is meant for damp areas the paper coating is mildew resistant. Tape it,Prime it, and paint it with a mildew resistant paint. and be sure to use a good quality silicone caulking. The quality of caulking you use will determine how long it will be before you have this problem again, so don’t skimp. I’m sure you didn’t want to hear that, but it’s what you have to do to fix the problem. During my time as a contractor I’ve personally done many of these jobs. I have a problem with paint, plaster and corner bead in a bathroom. It is located on a short wall next to the corner of a fiberglass shower and tub. Originally the space for the bathtub turned out to be shorter and narrower than the new tub required so a short wall was installed to make a space wider than the tub. The wall had a mildew problem and than plaster damage and rotten 2 x 4 wood. Last spring I replaced the water damaged drywall, the rotten wood with chemically treated lumber, used indoor/outdoor spackling and painted with what was supposed to be bathroom/kitchen rated paint. The paint was not supposed to need primer and was latex water based. I followed the instructions about time between additional paint coats. The old corner bead had some rust which I sanded off before painting and the section that was replaced with new galvanized corner bead probably lost its coating at the corner from sandpaper. Six months later the new plaster area and the old area that were painted do not have any problem with mildew (Paint was mildew resistant.) but I have paint cracking, rust causing the paint to flake off on the old corner bead and some of the spackling coming off after exposure to water. I would have assumed that four coats of water resistant paint designed for bathrooms/kitchens would protect the plaster underneath. I have some deformation of the plaster possibly caused by nails in the original dry 2 x4 moving up and cracks probably caused by the underlying drywall cracking. I have replaced the shower curtain and installed a plastic corner guard between the tub and the shower stall to help prevent water splashing on the short wall. Most of the problems were from the paint which was purchased at Miejer* and is apparently the brand "magical". The next thing I intend to do is sand all the cracked and loose paint off. Sand off any high points on the spackling and probably dig out the areas that my be nails coming up and fill. Sand out the rust on the old corner beads again. Patch the plaster with DAP CrackSHOT Spackling Paste Interior/Exterior which I have very good results with elsewhere. Paint with an oil based primer and coat with urethane (oil) based paint. How would you fix this problem permanently? Thanks everyone, Bond *Miejer is similar to K-Mart or WalMart in the midwest.

Response:

RamblinOn Based on the condition of the old corner bead that was removed it appears that the corner bead installed in 1983 was not galvanized. The new galvanized material does not have a problem. The site you recommended was useful, Thanks. I intend to sand again and paint with an oil based primer. I have been told that latex does not seal as well as oil based paints and may have minute gaps. Most of the people I have talked to in paint stores were young and had no practical experience. I am not sure if I can remove all of the rust and it may continue to spread. Thanks, Bond – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Don’t know if I read the entire situation right, but the galvanized corner bead likely continued to rust due to improper preparation or rust underneath that continues to spread.    Painting without primer may have encouraged more rust, or minute gaps in the paint coating.  Use a good primer intended for the surfaces and you should be fine.  Check out this site: http://benjaminmoore.com/h/hb3.html#pic6

Response:

Don’t know if I read the entire situation right, but the galvanized corner bead likely continued to rust due to improper preparation or rust underneath that continues to spread.    Painting without primer may have encouraged more rust, or minute gaps in the paint coating.  Use a good primer intended for the surfaces and you should be fine.  Check out this site: http://benjaminmoore.com/h/hb3.html#pic6

Response:

TinMan It is not exposed to direct liquid moisture now. Certainly water vapor in the air can be a problem in a bathroom. This should have less exposure than the ceiling and upper walls of the shower/bathtub. The walls are covered with water resistant wall paper outside of this area next to the tub. The ceiling and upper walls of the tub/shower (not protected with fiberglass) are plaster covered with 20 year old paint. The old paint has mildewed areas but no water damage. The vent fan has been upgraded also. Bond – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a problem with paint, plaster and corner bead in a bathroom. It is located on a <some text deleted You will never, ever cure this problem with paints primers or exterior spackle. You need to start over and use tile or anther surface that will stand up to moisture.  Either that or alter the design in some other way so it’s not exposed to moisture.

Response:

The dry wall is wet, its that simple. What you’ve done is sealed the moisture in, rather than preventing moisture from getting in. What you’ll need to do (an I know you don’t want to hear this) is rebuild the wall.  Over time the caulking fails around the tub and the dry wall act like a wick, and soaks up the  moisture. Tear out the old wall I’m sure you will find that the bottom of the wall is wet and rotting. Rebuild the wall using regular 2×4’s (don’t use treated wood, the chemical in the wood will leech into the dry wall and create the problem your trying to avoid) Board it with Green Board, that’s that green dry wall stuff and is meant for damp areas the paper coating is mildew resistant. Tape it,Prime it, and paint it with a mildew resistant paint. and be sure to use a good quality silicone caulking. The quality of caulking you use will determine how long it will be before you have this problem again, so don’t skimp. I’m sure you didn’t want to hear that, but it’s what you have to do to fix the problem. During my time as a contractor I’ve personally done many of these jobs. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a problem with paint, plaster and corner bead in a bathroom. It is located on a short wall next to the corner of a fiberglass shower and tub. Originally the space for the bathtub turned out to be shorter and narrower than the new tub required so a short wall was installed to make a space wider than the tub. The wall had a mildew problem and than plaster damage and rotten 2 x 4 wood. Last spring I replaced the water damaged drywall, the rotten wood with chemically treated lumber, used indoor/outdoor spackling and painted with what was supposed to be bathroom/kitchen rated paint. The paint was not supposed to need primer and was latex water based. I followed the instructions about time between additional paint coats. The old corner bead had some rust which I sanded off before painting and the section that was replaced with new galvanized corner bead probably lost its coating at the corner from sandpaper. Six months later the new plaster area and the old area that were painted do not have any problem with mildew (Paint was mildew resistant.) but I have paint cracking, rust causing the paint to flake off on the old corner bead and some of the spackling coming off after exposure to water. I would have assumed that four coats of water resistant paint designed for bathrooms/kitchens would protect the plaster underneath. I have some deformation of the plaster possibly caused by nails in the original dry 2 x4 moving up and cracks probably caused by the underlying drywall cracking. I have replaced the shower curtain and installed a plastic corner guard between the tub and the shower stall to help prevent water splashing on the short wall. Most of the problems were from the paint which was purchased at Miejer* and is apparently the brand "magical". The next thing I intend to do is sand all the cracked and loose paint off. Sand off any high points on the spackling and probably dig out the areas that my be nails coming up and fill. Sand out the rust on the old corner beads again. Patch the plaster with DAP CrackSHOT Spackling Paste Interior/Exterior which I have very good results with elsewhere. Paint with an oil based primer and coat with urethane (oil) based paint. How would you fix this problem permanently? Thanks everyone, Bond *Miejer is similar to K-Mart or WalMart in the midwest.

Response:

I have a problem with paint, plaster and corner bead in a bathroom. It is located on a

<some text deleted You will never, ever cure this problem with paints primers or exterior spackle. You need to start over and use tile or anther surface that will stand up to moisture.  Either that or alter the design in some other way so it’s not exposed to moisture.

Response:

I have a problem with paint, plaster and corner bead in a bathroom. It is located on a short wall next to the corner of a fiberglass shower and tub. Originally the space for the bathtub turned out to be shorter and narrower than the new tub required so a short wall was installed to make a space wider than the tub. The wall had a mildew problem and than plaster damage and rotten 2 x 4 wood. Last spring I replaced the water damaged drywall, the rotten wood with chemically treated lumber, used indoor/outdoor spackling and painted with what was supposed to be bathroom/kitchen rated paint. The paint was not supposed to need primer and was latex water based. I followed the instructions about time between additional paint coats. The old corner bead had some rust which I sanded off before painting and the section that was replaced with new galvanized corner bead probably lost its coating at the corner from sandpaper. Six months later the new plaster area and the old area that were painted do not have any problem with mildew (Paint was mildew resistant.) but I have paint cracking, rust causing the paint to flake off on the old corner bead and some of the spackling coming off after exposure to water. I would have assumed that four coats of water resistant paint designed for bathrooms/kitchens would protect the plaster underneath. I have some deformation of the plaster possibly caused by nails in the original dry 2 x4 moving up and cracks probably caused by the underlying drywall cracking. I have replaced the shower curtain and installed a plastic corner guard between the tub and the shower stall to help prevent water splashing on the short wall. Most of the problems were from the paint which was purchased at Miejer* and is apparently the brand "magical". The next thing I intend to do is sand all the cracked and loose paint off. Sand off any high points on the spackling and probably dig out the areas that my be nails coming up and fill. Sand out the rust on the old corner beads again. Patch the plaster with DAP CrackSHOT Spackling Paste Interior/Exterior which I have very good results with elsewhere. Paint with an oil based primer and coat with urethane (oil) based paint. How would you fix this problem permanently? Thanks everyone, Bond *Miejer is similar to K-Mart or WalMart in the midwest.

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