Act Acting » Method Acting » Pet stains & odors

Pet stains & odors

Question:

A product called Scentless.  It is not an enzyme or just an ordinary cleaner. Once sprayed on old or new stain, this amazing product within seconds makes the stain and odor disappear.  Guaranteed

Response:

more info on Scentless please, ph#, email, snailmail anything ? thanks in advance m

Response:

A product called Scentless.  It is not an enzyme or just an ordinary cleaner. Once sprayed on old or new stain, this amazing product within seconds makes the stain and odor disappear.  Guaranteed

Now that’s got to be too good to be true – especially since most pro carpet cleaners find that elimination of pet odors is one of the most challenging problems they face.  Most of these "quickie" products I’ve seen only  cover the smell up for a short period only to return in a few days, especially when humid conditions re-acitivate the odor-producing components in the stain.   When pet odors are really bad (to the point of making your eyes weep) the only method I’ve ever found productive involve several steps: (1) location of all the stains.  Usually requires the use of a high-powered UV blacklight and/or humidity probe to identify protein stain locations on carpet, if any are missed you’re wasting your time; (2) neutralize urine residue by use of an acidic (vinegar or citric acid) sprayed over stains and surrounding area; (3) application of a urine-specific enzyme "digester" to carpet surface and also injection of same into the rug pad beneath the area of the stain by means of a hypodermic, allow enzyme to "cook" for 2 days under a plastic cover; (4) thorough cleaning of carpet by hot-water extraction method using a neutral cleaning agent, and (5) elimination of residual odor by means of high-powered ozone generation equipment for 24 hours.  Needless to say this is not an inexpensive process because of the time involved, expensive chemicals and equipment, but it’s ususally cheaper than a new carpet and pad (provided the stain has not attacked the walls, tackstrips or molding).  Makes more sense to keep the critters out if they have bad habits.

Response:

A product called Scentless.  It is not an enzyme or just an ordinary cleaner. Once sprayed on old or new stain, this amazing product within seconds makes the stain and odor disappear.  Guaranteed Now that’s got to be too good to be true – especially since most pro carpet cleaners find that elimination of pet odors is one of the most challenging problems they face.  

Well said, and *absolutely* correct. Is for me, anyhow. Let’s try it on an oxidized, dried, bright yellow, urea pigmented stain on a wool, heck, on a top notch stain resistant nylon, even olefin… Most of these "quickie" products I’ve seen only  cover the smell up for a short period only to return in a few days, especially when humid conditions re-acitivate the odor-producing components in the stain.

Please note the above; the observation is correct.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – When pet odors are really bad (to the point of making your eyes weep) the only method I’ve ever found productive involve several steps: (1) location of all the stains.  Usually requires the use of a high-powered UV blacklight and/or humidity probe to identify protein stain locations on carpet, if any are missed you’re wasting your time; (2) neutralize urine residue by use of an acidic (vinegar or citric acid) sprayed over stains and surrounding area; (3) application of a urine-specific enzyme "digester" to carpet surface and also injection of same into the rug pad beneath the area of the stain by means of a hypodermic, allow enzyme to "cook" for 2 days under a plastic cover; (4) thorough cleaning of carpet by hot-water extraction method using a neutral cleaning agent, and (5) elimination of residual odor by means of high-powered ozone generation equipment for 24 hours.  Needless to say this is not an inexpensive process because of the time involved, expensive chemicals and equipment, but it’s ususally cheaper than a new carpet and pad (provided the stain has not attacked the walls, tackstrips or molding).  Makes more sense to keep the critters out if they have bad habits.

The above is completely true. In severe cases, and in my business, if I locate more than 20% of a room’s carpet is contaminated, the carpet and pad go (probably 60% of the subfloor and pad is *then* contaminated; the pad is a *sponge*). If the urine area is a coffee cup saucer on the *surface*, it is a garbage can lid *underneath*. The subfloor has to be cleaned, using Roger’s acid rinse, and whether it is wood, concrete, or *whatever*, it has to be *sealed*–I CANNOT get out all the dried urine salts and crystals. If tack strip has become contaminated, it goes. The use of pigmented alcohol based shellacs will be necessary for wall and baseboard contamination (a male animal), after cleaning. The subfloor is completely sealed. If this is NOT done, new padding and carpet become contaminated. The dried urine salts in the subfloor will activate in the presence of heat and humidity, and enter the new carpet. The animal can be *gone*, and you will smell urine *again*. You *only* can smell in the presence of heat and moisture (makes the odor causing substance "volatile"), and only substances which are soluble in water (and also soluble with "fats" or lipids) in even the slightest degree can be smelled (your olfactory nerve "sensors" have water and lipid barriers; if an odor particle can’t penetrate water/lipids, you don’t *smell* it). Just had a lady with this problem. Put in new carpet over a contaminated floor from an older cat who had started to urinate indoors outside of its box; her cat had been dead for 4 months. She opened up her windows, outside warm, moist air flowed in, and now her guest bedroom smells of cat urine–and *no* cat. Her new carpet and pad are now contaminated. It is unfortunate that she would not do what was suggested the *first* time, under a *full* guarantee, but it is understandable. She really didn’t believe that it could happen, and felt the she could escape the cost of decontamination and sealing by simply installing new carpet. I understand her reluctance, but now she gets *another* bill, and larger–we had to put in new pad, and clean *both* sides of her carpet. Put it this way: an animal urinating 6 ozs per day is 17 *gallons* in a year… I have used probaly 50 different urine removal products, from enzymes, to masks, to ones dependent on chemical reaction, to sealing products, and there is not *one* which can do what this one claims. Let alone remove the damage urine/urea does to the *dye* of the rug. I share this skepticism. And I have a background in chemistry/engineering; if I could invent *either* a miracle "spotter" or a "miracle" pet stain removal product, I wouldn’t be cleaning carpets and textiles every day–I would be floating out on the Gulf, with beautiful women feeding me pina’ coladas, and acting like a Big Shot… Obviously, I’m *not*. Mark IICRC Certified Master Cleaning Technician IICRC Certified Master Restoration Technician

Response:

Related Posts

Leave a Reply